Brand Watch: Celine

May 14, 2025 | Posted in Blog


a large, light tan woven straw Celine tote bag with brown leather shoulder straps. The bag features a distinctive, stylized geometric pattern woven into its front

When thinking of French luxury, the world of fashion has been truly spoilt but, as a fashion house, Celine has set itself apart. 

When we think of Celine, classic style with a contemporary twist comes to mind, with the brand always elevating what has come before. If you want a wardrobe staple, Celine is there with celebrities such as Lady GaGa and Dakota Johnson being spotted with pieces from the label.

In this brand rundown, we’re looking at Celine as a fashion house, from its beginning as a small boutique in Paris to the global brand it is today. 

The appeal of Celine 

Celine is all about ‘understated luxury’. Like most fashion houses, it has gone through many different eras but, the concept of wearable Parisian elegance has always been at the forefront of every collection. 

Every piece is designed to garner attention but covertly. Those who wear Celine aren’t trying too hard, their style is effortlessly chic. Even with the more dramatic designs from recent years, there’s always wearability without the loss of exclusivity. 

From its clothing to its accessories, Celine is a brand that has generational appeal, being worn by people of all ages. It’s a safe pair of hands without losing the ability to surprise on the runway and, in the world of fashion, that has proven invaluable. 

celine perfume next to a celine box

History of the House 

The beginning

In 1945, Céline Vapiana, along with her husband Richard, founded Celine; but originally it was a made-to-measure children’s shoe shop. The couple ran their business from 52 Rue Malte in Paris before expanding to three more stores due to their success. 

1960 welcomed change for the brand as the first Celine ready-to-wear women’s clothing range was introduced. This would be joined by a women’s shoe line in 1963. 

Initially, Celine tapped into the practical fashion market, prioritising pieces that could act as stylish yet versatile garments or even as sportswear. Every piece of clothing felt unique but still designed realistically for a woman’s everyday life. 

The brand branched out again in 1964, this time with a signature fragrance. Vent Fou, the first Celine Parfum de Toilette was floral and fun, appealing to the ‘cool girl’ of the decade. 

celine sunglasses and wallet

Embracing the new

After the launch of Celine bags, belts, and gloves in 1966, Céline Vapiana would open a factory in Florence so she could keep up with growing sales. The accessories were made from leather and Vapiana wanted to ensure that quality remained high. 

Celine’s logo was originally a red elephant created by cartoonist Raymond Peynet. When the brand was created, this made sense but as it transitioned to women’s fashion, a change was needed. In 1973, the Blazon Chaine design was introduced. Inspired by the Arc de Triomphe, the new, more elegant logo featured intertwining Cs.

The new ‘C’ logo would then be used on the fashion house’s first sulky canvas bag – these are now a Celine brand staple. 

LVMH

By the 80s, Celine was international with 89 stores worldwide. The winds of change would then come again with French businessman, Bernard Arnault, buying Celine’s capital. It wouldn’t be until 1996 that the brand officially became part of the LVMH group.

The following year, Céline Vapiana sadly died and the brand would look for someone to fill her beautifully crafted shoes. Her successor, Michael Kors, has been a fixture in the high-end fashion world for decades, and he brought his keen eye for sportswear to the label. 

Celine was suddenly in direct competition with Louis Vuitton and Loewe, but Kors’s touch felt golden at the time, making the brand truly luxurious but still accessible. Swimsuits and colourful tailored pieces would come to the forefront, with Celine’s ‘It’ Boogie and Poulbot styles updating the brands’ image as the new millennium dawned. 

A change of hands

Celine seemed on a high until 2004 but, behind the scenes, declining sales and the mistreatment of LVMH’s smaller labels would lead to Michael Kors departing. Former Burberry creative director, Roberto Menichetti would take over. 

Despite making his mark at Burberry, Menichetti would fail to do the same at Celine, only lasting a year in the role. The brand wouldn’t find stability for a couple of years with Menichetti’s successor, Ivana Omazic being replaced by Phoebe Philo after only two years. 

Coming from Chloe, Philo was the breath of fresh air that Celine needed. Her sophisticated, minimalistic approach to fashion cut through all the overpowering colours of the late naughties, speaking to contemporary consumers of all ages. She would even win the Designer of the Year Award at the British Fashion Awards in 2010 and the CFDA’s International Designer of the Year Award in 2011.

What a difference a decade makes 

In 2015, 16 Rue Vivienne in Paris would become Celine’s HQ, as the brand continued to find success under Philo’s creative direction. In 2017, Séverine Merle was appointed CEO.

Phoebe Philo’s decade at Celine was a highlight for the brand but in 2018, she would depart, being replaced by Hedi Slimane. This was a controversial choice that wouldn’t pay off.

Slimane preferred edgier designs which, contrasting with Philo’s vision from the last decade, left consumers confused and pining for older Celine collections. His women’s designs stood out on the runway but, for many, it was for all the wrong reasons. 

Celine’s menswear collections would be elevated and expand thanks to Slimane. This would shock clientele as Celine was known for its focus on women and their wants. It was a big part of Vapiana’s original vision for the brand so, Slimane’s approach was controversial. 

After several seasons under his belt, he did win over many of his initial critics but Slimane solidified his impact by unveiling a new logo. The accent from Céline was dropped and changed to simply, Celine. 

Present day 

In October of 2024, a new Artistic Director for Celine was announced after Slimane announced he was exiting. Michael Rider enters the role with experience as Creative Director of Polo Ralph Lauren from 2018 to May 2024. 

Rider is a former member of the Celine family as he was Design Director during Phoebe Philo’s tenure. This brings many fashion fans hope for the future of the brand as Rider was an integral part of what made the Philo era so special. 

Inside of a Celine tote bag

Celine Favourites

As a fashion brand, Celine has many designs and pieces that have stood the test of time and made an undeniable impact. They’re all potential wardrobe staples and constantly popping up on vintage sites so, we’ve listed a few of our favourites. 

The Classique Triomphe Bag

The Triomphe bag is simple but chic, acting as Celine’s modern ‘it’ bag. It’s been seen on the shoulders of celebs like Alexa Chung, Karlie Kloss, and Brie Larson. 

The Classic Panier Small Braided Triomphe

A further ‘Triomphe’ for Celine, this elevated tote first caught our attention in 2018. It easily gives ‘old money’ in all the best ways, with a casual luxury that’s easy to style. 

The Celine Slip Dress

Underwear as outerwear came back with a bang in late 2015/early 2016, and Celine’s range of must-have slip dresses made this clear. 

The Circular Hair Clip 

Celine’s SS15 brought geometric jewellery to the runway and to every fashion lover’s wishlist. The circular hair clip especially was a hit and is still sought after to this day. 

The Trapeze Bag

Since its inception in 2010 during the Philo era, the Trampeze bag has made its mark as a go-to when it comes to Celine’s designs. 

The Glove Shoe 

Another Philo favourite, the glove shoe trend of 2015 was started by Celine. It was declared the shoe of the summer for its stylish yet comfortable design. 

The Striped Neckline Tank Top 

From the Michael Kors era, this tank is proof that Celine could make even the simplest of pieces something special. When Bella Hadid wore this in 2021, nostalgia for the forgotten era of Celine definitely rose. 

The Sulky Tote

As we’ve mentioned, the Celine Sulky bag became a popular choice in the 70s and beyond. It’s one of many Celine accessories that still captivate collectors. 

If you’re looking to add a touch of luxury to your wardrobe with a quality designer bag, Your Dream Bag may be just what you’re looking for. 

With our handpicked selection of designer handbags and accessories and easy-to-enter competitions, getting your hands on your next fashion fave is just a few clicks away.  

This week, we’re launching Celine Week, where you can win a Celine Classic Panier, Celine Parade Perfume or a pair of Celine Triomphe Sunglasses.


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